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rookie
USA
327 Posts |
 Posted - 10/20/2009 : 13:42:30
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| Could someone list the steps in laymons terms, for adjusting correctly the sizing die. I have read the manuals a bunch, and downloaded RCBS's reloading guide. I have no mentor close and want to make darn sure I got this right. I use the rcbs rockchucker and bought lee dies because of the shellholder with it. Thanks, you folk's are very knowledagable. Thanks j.k. (rookie) |
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CDRT
USA
357 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 13:48:39
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This is from the RCBS site and pretty much says it all:
When setting up the full length sizer die, screw the die down until it touches the shell holder at the top of the press stroke. Then lower the shell holder and screw the die down about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. You will feel a slight thump as the leverage system cams over center (when you run the ram back up). Size the case and again check it in the chamber. Size a couple more cases and check in the chamber. If these cases chamber, go ahead and size and load the rest of the cases.
You might want to buy some different lock rings for your Lee dies, since the Lee lock ring can't be set in one position. RCBS dies and others have a set screw so once you set the die, you can keep the same position each time you use it. |
Edited by - CDRT on 10/20/2009 13:51:51 |
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rcolarco
1092 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 14:04:43
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There are many ways to do this. Here is one. Others will have other techniques.
Remove the decapping assembly from the die.
For full-length sizing, the die bottom should contact the shell holder. Run the ram (with shell holder) all the way up, then screw down the sizing die until it touches the shell holder. Then lower the ram, and turn the sizing die down another 1/8 turn. Now when you run the ram all the way up, you will feel a little hesitation as it takes the spring out of the press.
Before you lock down the die, insert a lubricated shell into the shell holder. Run the ram all the way up. With the ram up, lock down the die lock ring. Turn the ring down until it contacts the press, then turn it a bit more. You may have to use a tool. Lee rings have that nice little o-ring that makes them easy to tighten by hand.
Run the ram down. Replace the decapping assembly. Adjust it so it protrudes from the bottom of the die about 1/8 inch. Run the ram (with shell) all the way up. It should decap without bottoming in the shell. Adjust as needed. Lock down the decapping assembly with the ram (and shell) all the way up.
A lot of this is done by feel. That is why it is best to have someone knowledgeable help you. If you have never done it, you won't know what feels right.
If you adjust your die in this way, you will make it as concentric as possible given the sloppy threads and press spring. You will probably not be able to remove the die without using a tool to unlock the lock ring. This will mess up the adjustment. I never use the little lock set screw to lock the ring to the die. I just adjust the die each time I use it. Once you have done it a couple of times, it will go quickly. The decapper will not need to be re-adjusted.
Check your case with a case gauge before resizing a quantity of cases. Remember to remove all lubricant from the case before using the gauge.
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gpw9552
USA
624 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 14:05:45
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| +1 for CDRT's reply. The reason for the 1/8 to 1/4 extra turn is that the early "C" press (like a C clamp) would spring and not quite seat the case fully in the die. |
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Old Schoolr
USA
1247 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 15:53:55
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The biggest headache I've had reloading for handgun, shotgun & rifle was setting up the sizer for bottle-necked rifle cartridges. My problem was that as the case was sized the head-to-shoulder dimension was increasing making the sized cases difficult to chamber. I was lucky enough to find an article by Rick Jamison that explained what was happening & how to correct the problem. I needed to bump the shoulder back.
I've never seen this issue addressed in any die set-up directions or in any loading manual. The flip side was I adjusted to bump back the case shoulder too much & those cases began showing the tell-tale line across the web that means the case are about to split at the head. There's a middle ground on adjustment balancing chambering ease & case life.
I'm no where near an expert on this & hope someone w/ more experience will join in the discussion. |
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rcolarco
1092 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 17:22:37
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quote:
Originally posted by gpw9552
+1 for CDRT's reply. The reason for the 1/8 to 1/4 extra turn is that the early "C" press (like a C clamp) would spring and not quite seat the case fully in the die.
Even a Rockchucker has some spring. |
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rcolarco
1092 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 17:32:24
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quote:
Originally posted by Old Schoolr
The biggest headache I've had reloading for handgun, shotgun & rifle was setting up the sizer for bottle-necked rifle cartridges. My problem was that as the case was sized the head-to-shoulder dimension was increasing making the sized cases difficult to chamber. I was lucky enough to find an article by Rick Jamison that explained what was happening & how to correct the problem. I needed to bump the shoulder back.
I've never seen this issue addressed in any die set-up directions or in any loading manual. The flip side was I adjusted to bump back the case shoulder too much & those cases began showing the tell-tale line across the web that means the case are about to split at the head. There's a middle ground on adjustment balancing chambering ease & case life.
I'm no where near an expert on this & hope someone w/ more experience will join in the discussion.
If your die and shellholder are dimensioned within tolerance, and your chamber is within tolerance, it is impossible to set the shoulder back far enough to cause an excess headspace condition. However, this is why I recommend checking your die setup with a case gauge. A case gauge will tell you (if you use it properly) whether or not your resized case is within headspace tolerance and length tolerance. If you adjust your resizing die to contact the shellholder, and the case gauge tells you the resized case is out of headspace tolerance, there is a problem somewhere. (Either the die, the shellholder, or the case gauge is out of tolerance.)
The foregoing applies to rimless bottleneck cartridges with enough shoulder to permit consistent headspacing. (The .30-06, .308, and .223 fall into this category.) If you want to go gray in a hurry, try reloading the .35 Remington for a Marlin lever gun. I had to research the loading techniques used for the T/C Contender before I could produce reliable ammunition. |
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viejo
35 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 18:22:21
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| It would help to know what you are reloading. There are differences between pistol (and 30 carbine) reloading and rifle reloading. |
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Mike B
29 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 18:43:04
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| Get a case gauge for your caliber. Use that to adjust your press. It is the best way. |
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rookie
USA
327 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 21:59:44
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| Who has the best deal on (in-stock) case gauge's? Thanks (rookie) |
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Terry_B
268 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 22:19:46
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| once upon a time Stoney Point sold a cartridge headspace gauge that was a set of bushings for diffewrenc calibers and a base that mounted on your caliper. it was cheap and worked well. you could also get bushings that let you measure the length of loaded ammo, base to the bullet shoulder. But i now look and they no longer list it. maybe ebay? I found them really handy. |
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Terry_B
268 Posts |
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mousegun
USA
503 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 23:06:01
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The correct method for sizing to get the best chambering and cartridge headspace for the Garand rifle see Scott Duff's "The M1 Garand: OWNER'S GUIDE (the green book) page 117.
(o)(-)
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Stockyards brat
USA
143 Posts |
Posted - 10/20/2009 : 23:14:48
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| Easy and cheap way to verify sizer die setting: Adjust die per factory directions. Take a factory round and pull the bullet. Save bullet and powder to rebuild round when finished. Back out de-cap pin to prevent primer contact. Removal is the sure thing. Lube the case and run into die a small amount. Remove and check the mark left on the neck by the die. Continue this process untill the ram is almost topped out. You will be able to track sizing progress down the case neck till it reaches the case shoulder. Finally bottom out the ram and then check case neck. The die should have just touched the neck. The sizer mark on the neck should just touch the neck/case juncture. A case gauge is faster, but this works as well. If all is well, then you won't have to worry about that particular die/case holder combo any more. |
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ma96782
USA
393 Posts |
Posted - 10/21/2009 : 01:08:43
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My way (it's my step #6)............
IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.
Examples……..
http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_detail_list/Case-Gauges-Headspace-Tools
This is how I do mine.
6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Holding the gauge vertically, insert a case into the case gauge (do NOT place it on the table top). The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“ While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run).
HTH.
Aloha, Mark |
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Stockyards brat
USA
143 Posts |
Posted - 10/21/2009 : 17:30:20
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| All the progressives suffer from plate flex. Set the sizing die in one of those up using the single stage method (bump shell holder against the die)and you will have excess headspace every time. First lot of 223 I loaded on a progressive was very short. About every other shot would seperate and eject a .38 Super case. I would then eject a jammed round that looked like a Nagant "bullet in the case mouth" round. I like to never figured out the problem. I had to buy a Wilson gauge to finally realize the problem. |
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missilegeek
USA
431 Posts |
Posted - 10/22/2009 : 23:39:47
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quote:
Originally posted by Terry_B
once upon a time Stoney Point sold a cartridge headspace gauge that was a set of bushings for diffewrenc calibers and a base that mounted on your caliper. it was cheap and worked well. you could also get bushings that let you measure the length of loaded ammo, base to the bullet shoulder. But i now look and they no longer list it. maybe ebay? I found them really handy.
What you are looking for is the Hornady LNL Headspace gauge. Stony Point sold that division to them.
https://www.sinclairintl.com/product/8809/s
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missilegeek
USA
431 Posts |
Posted - 10/23/2009 : 08:58:42
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quote:
Originally posted by Terry_B
turns out jarheadtop.com (jim owens) has them http://www.jarheadtop.com/Stony_Point_Equipment.htm
has some nice articles on highpower shooting and reloading that you might find informative
He's a little high.... |
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Beginner's question (reloading)
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